Top 10 Water Heater Code Violations

Installing a tank water heater might seem easy, but some of these common mistakes could be life-threatening.

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In the minds of many, installing a tank water heater is a piece of cake—an “I can’t believe I need a building permit to do this” kind of thing. These are the people who usually fail inspection. Indeed, a water heater can be easy to install, but replacing one in an existing home can introduce a host of complications. Some of this stems from the norms of the American home-building industry. Basements in new homes are usually left unfinished and pitched to buyers as a project they can easily tackle themselves when they need more living space. That day comes, and they go for it— frequently without a permit— unwittingly creating a number of code violations with respect to the water heater. One common mistake: boxing the water heater into a closet to hide it from view of the newly finished space. The deficiencies this creates surface when it comes time to replace the failing water heater and the building inspector shows up to sign off on the new installation. This kind of scenario happens more often than you might think; I see it all the time. There are a lot of code requirements around water heaters and not enough space to get into every one here. What follows are 10 of the most common code violations that I and other code professionals see out in the field when looking at water heaters, particularly replacement water heaters.

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1. Confusion about pans and drains

Drip pans are required when tank-type water heaters are installed in places where a leak could cause damage. These pans are not meant to protect from a catastrophic tank failure; they’re meant to catch the slow leak that no one notices. In a basement with a concrete floor, damage isn’t generally a concern. When the basement is finished, it may be. Drip pans in new homes also require drains. Neither pans nor pan drains have always been required, and they have been a tricky issue when it comes to replacement water heaters in newly finished spaces. Is there a place to drain to, and a route to get there? Installers and inspectors long bickered over whether either was required in replacement installations where a pan and drain wasn’t previously provided. The 2015 IRC brought some clarity, stating that drains aren’t required when they weren’t previously provided. The pans themselves, however, must be installed if the water heater is located where a leak can cause damage. Prior to this, the top violation would have been not installing pans and drains with replacement water heaters—now, the issue is inspectors continuing to require drains without notice of this code change.

2. Unsupported expansion tanks

Some may tell you that an expansion tank is required at every water heater, but that isn’t in the IRC. Where requirements for expansion tanks show up in local codes, they’ve been added in. What is required is “a means for controlling increased pressure caused by thermal expansion … where required,” and that’s only necessary under certain conditions. Figuring out whether a particular installation meets those conditions can be complicated. The easy solution is to just add an expansion tank—it doesn’t hurt. But because it’s an easy way out, the default position in many locales has become “expansion tanks are required.” The real answer about whether they’re necessary should come from a professional installer, not a regulatory authority. There are other devices and methods for controlling pressure other than expansion tanks. When expansion tanks are included, physical support for them is something of concern, as installers often leave them simply hanging by the pipes they connect to. Read the manufacturer’s installation instructions before you do that. It’s not a good choice, and some local codes prohibit it.

3. Improper TPRV pipe installation

The temperature pressure relief valve (TPRV) is an incredibly important life-safety device on every water heater. Its proper functioning is the difference between a nice hot shower and an explosion. Unlike the expansion tank, which is intended to protect the piping system from pressure, the TPRV protects the water-heater tank from experiencing more pressure than it can handle. Here’s how your water heater becomes a pressure bomb: The boiling point of water that we are familiar with—212°F—is the temperature at which water at sea-level atmospheric pressure turns to vapor and greatly expands. But as pressure increases, so does the boiling point. This means that when pressure builds up inside a water heater, liquid water can get hotter than its atmospheric boiling point, until the tank ruptures. When 40 or more gallons of superheated water is suddenly brought to atmospheric pressure and instantaneously vaporizes, the massive expansion can launch your water heater through your house. The TPRVs themselves are not usually a problem on water-heater installations, as they come installed in the water heater. The problems occur in the pipe between the valve and the discharge point. The IRC provides a list of 14 specific criteria meant to keep this pipe open. It cannot connect directly to a drain system; must discharge through an air gap in the same room; cannot be smaller than the diameter of the valve it’s connected to; can only serve a single appliance; must discharge to the floor, pan, receptor, or outdoors; must not cause structural damage; must be observable to the occupants; cannot be trapped; must flow by gravity; must terminate within 6 in. of the floor or receptor; cannot be threaded or have any valves or tee fittings; must be made of materials approved for potable water; and must be one size larger and secured at the end when made of plastic tubing materials. Many installations are tripped up by a number of these specific requirements.

4. Unlisted cord and plug

Most items in this list apply to conventional gas water heaters, but electric water heaters are also common. The hazards of gas, venting, and combustion air are eliminated with electric appliances, but there is still one common violation to be found. These appliances are generally intended to be hardwired to a switch location, but installers often buy a generic cord-and-plug assembly and plug them into an available outlet. Electric water heaters can only be installed with a cord and plug where listed by the manufacturer for such installation, and they must use a cord and plug that has been listed for use with the specific make and model of water heater. This rarely happens, which is why I recommend hardwired installations.

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5. Not enough vent and vent-connector clearance

Conventional tank water heaters generally utilize two types of vent and vent connectors: B-vent and single-wall. These vents get hot by design—a hot vent is part of what produces the draft required to remove the combustion products from the building. But B-vent and single-wall are not the same. B-vent has a pipe inside a pipe with an air space between them that insulates the outer pipe from the hot inner pipe. Because the outer wall of B-vent doesn’t get all that hot, code requires only 1 in. of clearance between it and combustibles. Single-wall vents get very hot, requiring a 6-in. clearance to combustibles. In an attempt to maximize finished floor space when boxing off the water heater from the rest of the room, people often don’t leave enough clearance between the new wall framing and the vent pipes. Basement-finishing projects are notorious for this code violation.

6. Insufficient vent and vent-connector slope

The ideal vent or chimney system is entirely vertical, though this is rarely feasible. More often, fuel-fired water heaters connect to a chimney or vent by way of a vent connector, which is essentially just another piece of pipe. The connector should be as short as possible and must slope upward from the water heater at a slope no lower than 1/4-in-12. Once it connects to the vent—the portion that leaves the building—things get more complicated. The general expectation is that the vent run vertically, with offsets no greater than 45° from vertical, but that is not the whole story. Vent-slope limitations hinge on a number of variables, including the diameter of the vent, length of the vent, type of vent, and a host of other things. Once a house is built and the vent system designed, it’s no easy task to evaluate and modify it later. When finishing basements, owners often find the water heater isn’t where they’d like it, so they move it and connect it back to the original vent with a long, low-slope vent connector. Long horizontal vent runs can greatly reduce the drafting ability of natural-draft appliances, and could lead to backdrafting of combustion gases into the home, creating a major life-safety hazard.

7. Incorrect draft-hood connection

Water heaters are tested and provided with their specific draft hood (draft diverter), but it doesn’t come attached; it’s in the box separately. The installer must attach the hood that came with the new appliance, and this almost always requires fasteners. Too often I’ve arrived at inspections where the hood from the old water heater is used on the new one. Even more often, the new hood is used but not properly fastened—the provided screws are still in a bag with the instructions, glued to the side of the water heater. This is a very embarrassing reason to fail inspection, so never forget the screws.

8. No support for plastic vents

High-efficiency power-vented water heaters with plastic, sealed vents are popular, especially in new, tight homes, and as replacements for conked-out conventional water heaters. They eliminate the issues with conventional vent clearances and slope, and can also relieve the issues of interior combustion air. The plastic vents can be installed horizontally, but they must be supported according to the manufacturer’s specs. Water vapor produced during combustion will condense inside these vents, so they must be sloped to drain. These horizontal vent pipes are often fished over finished ceilings in a basement and left unsupported. A sag in the vent can allow water to accumulate and affect the safe and efficient operation of the appliance. Though not a joy to anyone, sometimes a finished ceiling needs to be cut to install proper support for the vent.

9. Sediment traps that don’t work

A sediment trap and a drip leg are often considered one in the same, but not by the code. A drip is only required when wet gas (gas with a small amount of liquid present) exists. A drip simply needs to allow gravity to collect the liquid in the low spots. A sediment trap is required when an integral trap is not provided in the appliance, and it usually isn’t. From manufacturing to service, gas pipe goes through quite a bit of handling, cutting, and threading that can leave some debris— usually bits of metal—in the pipe. This debris, or sediment, can be small enough to get caught in the flow of the gas. Unlike a drip leg, gravity alone will not separate the sediment from the gas stream. A sediment trap requires a hard turn that the gas can flow around but sediment can’t—much like a sharp turn in a fast-moving go-kart has the potential to fling you out of the driver’s seat. Installing this correctly has been so misunderstood in the industry that the 2012 edition of the International Fuel Gas Code added a figure to show how it must be done.

10. Lack of combustion air

This is a big subject, with more to say than what follows. Combustion air does a few things: It ventilates the appliance, it provides oxygen for the fire, it feeds an open draft hood to maintain draft, and it replaces the air leaving the building with fresh outside air in order to maintain neutral pressure. In older homes, before the codes were loaded down with provisions for energy conservation, homes were leaky and interior-air calculations were done (or not done) to provide sufficient combustion air. A naturally leaky home will naturally allow replacement air (combustion air) to enter—this is one method allowed in the code. When the home was built, water heater installed, and combustion air designed, the water heater was likely in a wide-open unfinished basement. This offered a large volume of interior combustion air. With the air-sealing of homes and the finishing of basements— which often includes enclosing mechanical equipment in some sort of closet—interior combustion air gets choked off, and naturally drafting appliances get starved of air.

The above list is not a comprehensive discussion of all the code requirements for water heaters. But it does cover some of the most common mistakes— all of which are easily avoided if you know what to look for.

EDITOR’S NOTE:  One of our readers who lives in a region with regular seismic activity reminded us that strapping or other bracing is required for buildings that fit into one of the Seismic Design Categories specified in the IRC. If you live or work in one of these regions, chances are that your local codes have more specific details about requirements and best practices regarding water-heater bracing, so please check with your local building department.

More about water heaters

The Water-Heater Payoff – An expensive water heater may be efficient, but will it save enough energy to justify the purchase price?

Tankless Water Heaters – Tankless heaters don’t take up much room, and they don’t waste energy on hot water you’re not using.

Heat-Pump Water Heaters – Higher efficiencies than electric-resistance heaters will save money, but upfront costs are higher.

 Drawings: Kate Francis

From Fine Homebuilding #288

Please contact Texas Valor Inspection Services to schedule a professional inspection for your home or business: 833-898-2567 or email larry@texavalor.com

Going crazy during the lock-down and looking for a fun and educational family project? Plant a Victory Garden!

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Stuck at home with the kids and going crazy sitting and waiting for the COVID-19 lockdown to pass? Angry that you can’t get the food items you are accustomed to from H-E-B? Worried that it feels like you are not controlling anything happening lately? Take local control with a Victory Garden!

Victory gardens, also called war gardens or food gardens for defense, were vegetable, fruit, and herb gardens planted at private residences and public parks in the United States, United Kingdom, Canada, Australia and Germany during World War I and World War II. In the war time governments encouraged people to plant victory gardens not only to supplement their rations but also to boost morale.

Planting a Victory Garden engages the whole family in an activity that

1.       Is outdoors (Yay!)

2 Is educational (Yes this counts as homeschool activity if you log it)

3.       Is fun

4.       Is inexpensive

5.       Gives you and your family control over a real local food supply

But wait, you say, I don’t know how to plant a garden!

Not to worry, I got you on this! Follow my guide below to make an EZ Victory Garden today. In this example I used a 6’ x 2’ x 2’ galvanized steel trough from Tractor Supply. You can scale it down by a third by using the 4’ x 2’ x 2’ steel trough if you like, just cut all the inventory by roughly a 1/3.

Project time

4 hours including shopping time

Project Inventory

From Tractor Supply

1 - 6’ x 2’ x 2’ galvanized steel trough                      $180
(Alternatively, the 4’ x 2’ x 2’ trough is currently on sale for $95)

1 – Bag Easy Straw Mulch                                             $15
(Optional)

From Home Depot

8 – 50 qt Magic-Gro potting soil                                $115
(Less expensive options available)

1 – Roll Weedblock Film                                                $13

1 – Miracle-Gro Garden Feeder                                  $12
(Optional)

Fruits & Veggies – Customize as you like here. We opted mostly for plants. The only seedlings we planted were lettuce and cabbage.

2 - Griller Zucchini 5”                                                      $8.76

1 – Big Bertha Bell Pepper 4.5”                                   $3.40

2 – Strawberry 4.5”                                                          $7.56

1 – Cantaloupe 5”                                                             $4.38

2 – Tomato 4”                                                                    $8.76

1 – Red Bell Pepper 4”                                                    $8.75

2 – Cucumber 4.5”                                                           $7.56

1 – Packet Cabbage Seeds                                            $1.59

1 – Packet Lettuce Seeds                                              $1.69

How to do it

1.       Select an area of your yard that gets a lot of direct sunlight.

2.       Place the trough in the desired location and cut in around the base with a spade, outlining the container.               

3.       Move the trough and dig out the lawn to create a pad, leveling the planter.

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4.       Drill holes in the bottom of the trough to allow for drainage.

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5.       Cut the Weedblock Film to the dimensions of your trough 6’ x 2’ in our instance.

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6.       Place the trough on the prepared pad and put the Weedblock Film in the bottom.

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7.       Fill with potting soil, taking time to spread evenly as you go

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8.       Plan out your garden layout on paper or by setting plants on the planter.

9.       Plant your garden according to your plan. Ensure you left enough room between the plants!

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10.   Water the plants (We used Miracle-Gro plant food in our water).

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11.   Once the soil settles a bit, you can top it with the hay mulch which will ass additional nutrients and help keep the moisture in the soil.

12.   Watch it grow!

Educational topics I discussed with my son.

1.       The history of Victory Gardens.

2.       How to calculate volume using 3 dimensions and square footage using 2 dimensions (I explained the concepts of square feet and cubic feet using dimensions, then I had my son calculate the approximate volume and square footage of the planter).

3.       Soil science and crop rotation on large farms (This was a general discussion at a 4th grade level with some history of why we do it and what can happen if it is not managed properly).

Enjoy!

Larry Allhands

The 10 Most Common Defects Found in Home Inspections - And the Average Cost to Fix Them!

The process of buying a new home can be both exciting and nerve-wracking. While the initial stages of browsing through real estate listings, touring homes, and dreaming about your future can be fun, you’ll also want to make sure that you’re investing in a worthy piece of property. Especially considering that this will likely be the largest single investment you will make in your life. To ensure you aren’t buying into a ‘money pit’ of problems, it’s essential to have a thorough home inspection performed as a part of the home buying process.

To highlight this point, home inspections nation-wide have been uncovering much-needed property repairs. More than 1 million repairs needed more than $11,000 in costs, according to a February review of 50,000 home inspection reports by Repair Pricer, a home repair estimating resource.

Nearly 55 percent of homes analyzed across the country had doors that needed adjusting, which could be an indicator of foundation issues, the report showed. 54 percent of the homes lacked exterior caulking and sealant, which could leave the home susceptible to extensive water damage and higher energy bills. Furthermore, about 48 percent of homes lacked GFCI protection—this could pose a dangerous electrocution risk to homeowners around water-prone areas like the kitchen or bathroom.

“Homebuyers and real estate professionals across the country should leverage these insights to better position themselves in the stressful negotiation process,” says Christian Adams, CEO of Repair Pricer. “In places like Texas, for example, buyers may only be given three to five days to complete the inspection period, meaning they may only have 24 hours or less to make a decision. During this period, having clarity and insight into the cost of repairs listed in a home inspection report is critical to avoid leaving money on the table.”

The most expensive home defects—uncovered in 9 to 20 percent of the homes studied—ranged in repair prices from slightly more than $1,000 to less than $10,000.

The following is a chart from Repair Pricer of the 10 most common home defects found in inspection reports:

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When you consider that in Texas, a good home inspection conducted by a TREC licensed and certified Professional Real Estate Inspector will usually cost just 0.1 percent of the price of the home you are investing in, it makes sense to always have your property thoroughly inspected while in the option period to give you the peace of mind to make the buying decision and foresight needed for proper negotiation and safely closing of the deal.

Many low budget home inspection service companies use either TREC licensed Apprentice Inspectors or standard Real Estate Inspectors which have less stringent educational and experience requirements than the Professional Real Estate Inspector License. Texas Valor Inspection Services only uses TREC licensed Professional Real Estate Inspectors which are the highest qualified inspectors in the state.

Contact Us today to schedule your home inspection!

What is CSST?

CSST stands for Corrugated Stainless Steel Tubing. It appears to be a yellow flexible tube and can be found in some homes in the attic or as a feeder tube to gas appliances. CSST is a popular product in the greater Austin TX area, since many homes here have natural gas service. Although it is materially more expensive than traditional black iron pipe, CSST is quick to install and requires less cutting, fitting and labor time. This means that CSST is often cheaper and easier to install overall than black iron pipe, so many builders opt for it.

CSST

CSST does have very specific installation requirements. One such requirement is that the tubing itself must be bonded and grounded to the home electrical system. Failure to do so can cause pin holes to form if/when lightning strikes in the area, leaking natural gas into the home and ultimately fire, injury and loss of property or life. Essentially the CSST pinhole caused by a lightning strike on an ubbonded system can become a blowtorch in your home. CSST should not be confused with the other common flex tubes used to connect the natural gas pipe to an appliance. They are two different products.

Unbonded CSST after lightning strike

Unbonded CSST after lightning strike

CSST electrical bonding and grounding should be verified by a licensed electrician or plumber. A thorough inspection of CSST should include confirming the correct size and installation of the ground/bond wire.

How A Home Inspection Helped Me Lower My Property Tax Assessment

As my father used to say when I was growing up, a few things in this life are certain… among those are death and taxes. We, homeowners, are accustomed to seeing our assessed property values increase year after year, even when there are no improvements and even though our home suffers from the wear and tear associated with daily living.

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Some of us simply resign to the valuation increases. Others file a protest online and, after being denied online, just accept the new assessment. What many do not know is that you can actually set a hearing to argue your case for lower values, and given the right data and preparation, you can actually win!

Such was the case for me this year. My home clocked a hefty 4% increase in assessed taxable value. I protected online, was promptly denied, and then scheduled a hearing. Fortunately, I had a home inspection performed by a third party the year before for my 1 year home builder warranty, so I brought it along with some comps I thought would help.

I made the argument that my home not only did not increase in value, but that it want down 0.8% or stayed the same. To my surprise, they immediately shot down my comps, comparing them to their own, which were admittedly more accurate. But when I broke out the home inspection, they took note of all of the professionally documented “defects” in my home. Using this, they were persuaded that my home had not increased as much as they initially assessed and I was able to lock in a 1.7% increase in assessed value - and that was on a new construction home. All homes have defects, and these defects can be properly documented in a report by a skilled professional home inspector.

If you would like to schedule an appointment for a home inspection, you can follow this link to our online scheduler https://www.texasvalor.com/schedule-an-inspection or feel free to call us at (512) 630-0611.

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Texas Valor Adds FLIR Camera To Inventory

INFRARED THERMOGRAPHY (IRT)

FLIR cameras see moisture intrusion where the naked eye can’t

FLIR cameras see moisture intrusion where the naked eye can’t

Texas Valor has added a FLIR IR Camera to our inventory of tools and now add Infrared Tomography (IRT) imagery to all of our reports at no extra cost. IRT is a superior, non-invasive, moisture detection method when used for inspecting homes. It can also detect bad circuit breakers, areas missing insulation, and areas of thermal bridging in the home.

FLIR camera “Sees” the heat entering home through panels of missing insulation

FLIR camera “Sees” the heat entering home through panels of missing insulation

Making Your Real Estate Listings Come To Life With Drone Videography

The use of drones in real estate has opened up new ways to showcase a property. Reaching new heights, you can now highlight interesting views that buyers couldn't before see. Is the property close to recreational areas, attractions, school etc? What does the neighborhood look like? What is the lay of the land? Drone photos and videos are a perfect way to highlight this.

It's not just about flying. We edit your drone photos and videos to ensure they look their best. See our latest example below of 10 acres of land for sale in Burnet, TX.

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Using drones to market a property have been shown to help agents to sell faster and gain more listings. Perhaps this is why high volume real estate agents use aerial photography 3.5 times more often

According to NAR 85% of buyers and sellers prefer to work with an agent using video. 83% of home sellers prefer agents who use drones to market their property. Video creates an engaging experience. It trends better on social media and garners more clicks on google. 

We utilize video to tell story about a property. The story that will make it come to life on your MLS listings! Contact Texas Valor Today to talk about your drone projects!